July 11: Getaria

We had a big breakfast and made it to the bus stop by 6:45.  Thirty minutes later we were walking on the empty beaches of San Sebastián.  Coffee and a pastry in old town and then it was a walk along the coast and up through Urgull Park to the castle.  The sun was bright; the sky was clear and the park displayed the complete spectrum of green. When we returned to town, the beach was packed but we decided not to pass on the opportunity for a swim and then back to Getaria on the slow bus for siesta.

The Basque coast has some of the most beautiful beaches in Spain and since much of our walking keeps us in close proximity, I carry our bathing suits in our daypack, just in case a swim is in order.  The sand is fine grained and cleaned and raked daily.  The water clear, cool, and either placid or full of breakers depending on the type of beach — swim or surf.  Zumaia had breakers while San Sebastián was a mirror and both were exhilarating to swim in to escape the heat.  Although always game to go swimming, up to now, Laurel and Betty have limited their aquatics to toe surfing along the shore. 

However, after siesta, emboldened by my rave reviews, they donned their swimwear and we headed down to the small beach that our apartment overlooks.

Betty was determined to body surf and diligently threw herself at the  breakers.  A skinned shin and half a dozen sea water nasal flushes did not slow her down; she vowed to ride the surf before we leave Spain.

Laurel was also in the thick of it, hurling herself at the waves.  She maybe caught one or two, but one certainly caught her hard and exposed one of her two best kept secrets.  Nudity is not uncommon on a Spanish beach and this beach was no exception.  Many women were sunbathing or swimming topless.  Laurel, however, did not go “full Iberian” Iike the other sun worshipers; rather, she did the unusual but more  culturally appropriate, “Basque salute” (where one territory secedes from the binding constraints of the whole).  Although Laurel’s separation was complete, alas, the Basque region continues its struggles.  With her territories reunited and diplomatic relations restored, we decided we had had enough swimming for the day and 
walked home for supper.

After supper it was NetfIix and an ice cream.