Basque Time

Wednesday, July 17, 2019

July 17: Bilbao

Today was my turn to write the blog, but since we had two art museums scheduled, I tapped out and Betty agreed to cover the day.  Thanks Sis!

How I got talked into swapping days with Jim I’ll never know! A long morning walk and trips to two completely different museums in one day! Brothers!

Today would mark the second cloudy day since our holiday began on June 19th. Although the weather made our walk very comfortable, the lighting made it difficult to capture the real beauty of the scenery and in particular the Guggenheim Museum. 

We left our accommodation this morning looking for the Camino trail. We had followed the trail leading into the city yesterday and today we were looking for the trail leading out of the city. We never did spot any Camino markers in spite of having crossed the river three times. We did however, see one Perigrino early this morning heading out of town and another on our return trip home heading into town. So....we were close.

We weren’t on the trail more than five minutes when Laurel wondered aloud if we should stop for coffee because she had only had one cup before we left. We didn’t. An hour later as we were snapping photos of one of today’s sculptures, Laurel dubbed it ‘Two Coffee Cups’ - one standing up and one on its side. Shortly after she got her second cup.

Our walk along the river was beautiful this morning but was completely overshadowed by the Guggenheim Museum. Overall, in my opinion, there were two extraordinary artists on exhibit today—Frank Gerry and Ricard Serra. 

The museum itself is a real work of art! Gerry’s use of space, light, shape and materials is so unusual that quite literally I could not get centered the whole time I was inside. I felt dizzy and although I knew the floor was flat, because everything else was a mixture of curved lines and straight beams or columns  my brain would not believe my feet were grounded. Laurel had the same sensation so I would assume that his use of space affects many others the same way. In the past I have experienced weak knees when I looked at a masterpiece but I have not had a piece of art affect me in the same way that Gerry’s museum did. Gerry says “ There’s a range of creativity possible and I think it behooves us to explore that envelop and push at it.” Well done Mr. Gerry, you’ve done just that!

Serra’s mazes also affected my sense of physical stability. He uses space in such unusual ways that my brain could not make sense of the environment thus once again, making me dizzy as I walked through one of his massive mazes. Serra warns the viewer that this could happen and also suggest that some of his pieces will also affect one’s sense of time.

Jenny Holzer used printed text, actual redacted documents, statements she believes to be truisms and human bones to inform, incite(?) the viewer into action to address 
grievous acts and/or conditions in the world. Her art did not beautify the world in 
anyway unless you consider  that inciting the viewer to action will in the future make 
the world more beautiful. One of her truism was “ Bodies lie in the bright grass and 
some are murdered and some are picnicking.” So few words-such depth of meaning. I am sorry that I do not have any photos of her installations but the museum has a no photo policy on actual pieces.

By this time I was totally uncentered and unhinged and began to wonder if I am up to two galleries in one day! The rest of the exhibits at the Guggenheim were interesting and some very beautiful however it is the three mentioned above that had the greatest impact on me.

Time for lunch and home for a siesta.  No siesta for me because I have switched days with Jim so I must work on the blog before the next gallery erases everything from my thoughts and installs new ones.


Bilbao’s Fine Arts Museum did not disappoint us. As Laurel mentioned yesterday we started this visit yesterday but the permanent collection was closed to the public on Tuesdays. This museum has organized their permanent collection under alphabetized themes. This made for a very interesting mix of mediums, artists, time periods and styles to be exhibited side by side. I have already written far too much for one day but will post a few of my favourites. I must admit that none of the exhibits (letters) pushed me to think in different ways but many made me smile and I could certainly appreciate the workmanship behind the piece of art.































No comments:

Post a Comment